After me leading two routes in the morning up to HVS 5a, my partner and I stopped for lunch, then moved to the main crag, where my partner led The Vanishing Spade HS 4b.

As the route wanders significantly, we switched to ‘half rope’ system.

My partner led the route successfully and built a belay at the bolted anchor.
This was unusual for me - I would usually treat this as a sport anchor, just clipping into quickdraws on the anchor then belay the second from the floor. Second then cleans the anchor.

As the ropes were 70m triples and the route only 22m, I tied in to the middle using Alpine Butterfly knots / back-to-back screwgates to avoid having to pull excessive amounts of rope.

When I reached the anchor, I remember looking over my partner’s belay setup (which was fine) and starting to set up a sling safety to the anchor for myself before we abseiled off.

The next bit is a complete blank, but evidently I ended up not connected to the anchor via sling or rope and fell from 22m.

After c. 30 min unconscious, we walked out of Staple Edge to the car and I directed my partner to Gloucestershire Royal Hospital.

My partner had evidently removed / helped me to remove (though I cannot remember) my helmet, harness and climbing shoes and got into my approach shoes. He had also packed our bags ready to get away from the crag.
The ropes and some gear were left on the anchor. My partner went back later that evening to retrieve and will return to me at some point.

Photos of my helmet are attached. Needless to say, it’s a good job I was wearing one!
I’ve not looked at the contents of my climbing bag yet.