Date of Incident
Belay at the top of P1 of britomartis. Constructed of 1 in-situ peg, 1 in-situ nut and 2 additional nuts. All 3 nuts were behind a large flake that appeared solid at the time of belay construction. Climbing as a 3. When 2 seconds arrived the flake flexed with them hanging on it and all 3 nuts popped out. Belay was well equalised and held on the peg (heart in mouth). We all calmly unweighted the belay and added 2 more nuts and a cam in to the mix. The cam and 1 nut was good, the other nut behind another creaking flake. Equalised it all. Could have been an incredibly serious incident if it were not for the old peg.
Spend more time assessing the quality of suspect rock, try and have gear spread out over as many crack systems as possible. Think of where the loading is going to be once second(s) reach the stance not just whilst belaying. Basically take more care building belays in serious situations.
Trad rock climbing
Belaying failure or error
Rescue Services Involved?
12 May 2019, 20:58:17
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All reports are self-submitted and have not been edited by the BMC in any way, so please keep an open mind regarding the lessons and causes of each incident or near-miss.