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Date of Incident

16/11/2022

Country

England

Route

Incident

Inexperienced belayer using a grigri 2 on a DMM boa carabiner. Climber wanted to be lowered a couple of feet after which he was to climb again. During the lowering, the lever of the Grigri moved through the carabiner and got caught, sticking it in the rope freerunning position (It is difficult to reproduce the movement, but it is possible!). Maneuvering the handle back to the correct side of the carabiner was difficult and needed some wiggling and couldn't be done with climbers rope in any way tight. Dealt with by initially standing on the rope to make a brake, then another climber putting a belay using an ATC onto the brake rope, so that the rope could be paid out using the ATC through the inoperable grigri.

Lessons

Moving forward, grigris will not be used on boas or other large carabiners and grigri2s will be phased out of use.

Activity

Indoor climbing

When

Injury

No injury

Causes

Belaying failure or error

Anonymous?

Yes

Reported By

Participant

Wearing Helmets?

Rescue Services Involved?

None

Author

17 November 2022 at 14:52:57

For more advice and guidance on good practices visit BMC skills

All reports are self-submitted and have not been edited by the BMC in any way, so please keep an open mind regarding the lessons and causes of each incident or near-miss. 

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