I lead the first and second pitch, towards the top of the corner of the route was very wet so made the crux even harder, wet patch was about 15ft long and 6ft wide. Debated going off route but instead scraped and slipped my way to the top, struggling to place any substantial gear as didn't want to let go and risk slipping. Got to the top and the last hold on the top pulled down a fairly decent sized rock and I followed shortly after. Hefty fall around 60ft to the ledge just above the belay on second pitch. Helicopter from portland rescued due to several trauma injuries including a broken femur. Rushed to torbay hospital for surgery. Take care on this route especially if a wet start to the year.
Check the top before ascent. Make sure top out is solid and not moist.
Trad rock climbing
Serious injury requiring medical treatment
Falling rock, snow, ice or object, Hold breaking, Equipment failure
Rescue Services Involved?
Cliff rescue torbay, coastguard, helicopter, ambulance, police.
For more advice and guidance on good practices visit BMC skills
All reports are self-submitted and have not been edited by the BMC in any way, so please keep an open mind regarding the lessons and causes of each incident or near-miss.