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Date of Incident

02/07/2022

Country

England

Route

Incident

Belayer had led this route before and the climber was onsighting, had done perhaps 5 other gritstone VS at most. Maloja has 3 distinct sections of climbing; up to the flutes, stepping across to the ledge and the top out chimney/hole.

A gold dragon was placed about halfway up this first section, around 4m up. Then a red dmm dragon was placed in a pocket to the left of the climbing at 5.5m without good visibility of the placement. The climber then continued above the red cam to the flutes before the traverse. One/two more moves to the left would have allowed a no hands rest however this was not attempted due to fear of increasing the runout. Further gear placement was not possible as the top break is larger than the blue dragon and flash pump was setting in. Upon running out of finger strength and falling the red cam popped out the pocket causing the climber to flip upside-down. The gold cam then held but I bumped my head against a 60cm high rock on the ground after some rope stretch had reduced the fall speed. Carried on climbing that day like a nutter but gained minor whiplash in the neck and ear bruising from the incident.

Lessons

Back up cams/gear if possible, especially where run out or the placement has not been confirmed to be superb.
Warm up more, both on the ground and by starting with an easier route.

Activity

Trad rock climbing

When

Ascending

Injury

Minor injury

Causes

Equipment failure, Poor gear placement

Anonymous?

Yes

Reported By

Participant

Wearing Helmets?

Yes

Rescue Services Involved?

Author

29 November 2022 at 15:04:00

For more advice and guidance on good practices visit BMC skills

All reports are self-submitted and have not been edited by the BMC in any way, so please keep an open mind regarding the lessons and causes of each incident or near-miss. 

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