Date of Incident

29/01/2020

Country

Scotland

Incident

We were a group of three, a guide and two clients. While climbing the North Buttress in reasonable winter condition, on the belay stance of pitch 3 the guide unclipped the lanyard of the other client thinking it was his own. Not until he set off did he realise the mistake, so for a short period the client was unprotected. The ledge was cramped and covered in stacked double ropes, the lanyards were clipped onto a threaded sling at low level, added to this the carabiners of the guide and client were the same make and model.

Lessons

Take more time to check critical actions and never assume!

Activity

Winter climbing

When

Ascending

Injury

No injury

Causes

Unclipping the wrong lanyard

Anonymous?

Yes

Reported By

Observer

Wearing Helmets?

Yes

Rescue Services Involved?

none

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All reports are self-submitted and have not been edited by the BMC in any way, so please keep an open mind regarding the lessons and causes of each incident or near-miss.