First time climbing at Roaches. After climbing several routes throughout the day (mostly S/HS) I decided to lead Raven Rock Gully for an easy lead for the final climb of the day. I followed the Topo on the Rockfax app, moving left approximately half way up the climb to the central block. The move was an awkward overhang onto a sloper which felt too hard for the grade. I was protected by what I thought was a good thread approx 2m below the hard move. Slipped & fell on the climb up and the thread broke, leading to an 8m or so fall. Only other gear was below half height so decked out. Lead to broken collarbone and some other minor leg and back bumps.
Several factors led to this incident any one of which probably would have stopped a serious injury but the underlying causes in my opinion were as follows:
The Rockfax App Topo is incorrect (apparently different to the guidebook) and I think shows the Diff route going over the tricky overhang that I think is part of the VS? The description of the route doesn't provide much detail for route finding.
The thread popped, this was probably a combination of bad luck and poor placement choice.
The (planned) route being a Diff and it being one of the last of the day led to a certain level of complacency, leading to less protection and back up being placed than was probably safe.
Strongly suggest changing Topo on Rockfax and updating the description with better route details (possibly warning against moving left half way up the climb).
No helmet would have been serious head injury or fatal.
Trad rock climbing
Serious injury requiring medical treatment
Slip, trip or fall, Route Selection, Hold breaking
Rescue Services Involved?
No rescue required. Walked out and drove to A&E.
14 September 2020, 20:36:47
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All reports are self-submitted and have not been edited by the BMC in any way, so please keep an open mind regarding the lessons and causes of each incident or near-miss.