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Date of Incident

11/10/2025

Country

England

Area

Stanage Edge, Saliva Buttress

Route

Devil's Chimney

Activity

Trad rock climbing

When

Ascending

Injury

No injury

Incident

An experienced indoor climber, with about 50 outdoor climbs to HS, fell on a trad lead. Did not hit the ground. 2 cams pulled out.

Lessons

1) place more gear
2) could have used half ropes to assist placing more gear
3) the climber had asked for an additional person to assist belaying as concerned belayer not holding the brake strand of the rope, though the main belayer in fact caught the fall
4) don't push grades until familiar with belayer
5) know when to climb down from a route and not keep trying
6) don't wear stiff sport shoes on grit
6) The uppermost gear (a cam) may have been loosened by the climber making repeated attempts to move to the next position, so check for this
7) Re the lower gear coming out, practice and check all placements
8) be careful with cams in different rock types

Causes

Slip, trip or fall

Anonymous?

Yes

Reported By

Participant

Wearing Helmets?

Yes

Rescue Services Involved?

None

Author

18 March 2026 at 15:41:07

For more advice and guidance on good practices visit BMC skills

All reports are self-submitted and have not been edited by the BMC in any way, so please keep an open mind regarding the lessons and causes of each incident or near-miss. 

If you have a concern regarding this report please contact us at incidentreports@thebmc.co.uk

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