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Date of Incident

02/05/2026

Country

Wales

Area

Clogwyn Du'r Arddu (Cloggy)

Activity

Trad rock climbing

When

Ascending

Injury

Minor injury

Incident

I led the first pitch of Great Slab. Towards the top, I couldn't find the right holds and ended up falling. I was well above gear, and my climbing partner Raef was also yanked off his belay stance, so I probably fell about 15m in total, even though the gear (blue offset number 8) held. Bouncing down the slab I sustained severe bruises to my backside (more than three days later, one of my buttocks is almost entirely maroon) but didn't break any bones. Raef lowered me down. The 60m rope just got me to the ground, suggesting my last piece of protection was about 30m up the 45 pitch. I traversed back to the belay stance and untied. Raef then climbed my end of the rope to recover all but the top piece of gear, which we left. Initially Raef had hoped to down-lead the climb and recover all the gear, but reversing through the traverse at the bottom of the pitch didn't seem possible. We then walked off. It could have been much worse, but we were pretty shaken.

Lessons

Lesson 1: the system held up. The protection worked, the rope worked.
Lesson 2: we were lucky we were on the first pitch and could exit relatively easily. We are now contemplating self-rescue courses to build skills in case this happens higher up a mult-pitch
Lesson 3: grades are context-specific. Although I have led up to E1 climbs elsewhere, it was my first trip to Cloggy. When you don't know a multi-pitch crag, start with a grade you definitely find easy. This is particularly important if you're not going to leave a bag with first-aid stuff at the bottom of the cliff. We were planning to walk off so had packed for lightness. Luckily I was bruised rather than cut up but we didn't even have plasters with us.
Lesson 4: Protect the belay. If Raef had been secured, it might have reduced the fall.

Causes

Slip, trip or fall

Anonymous?

No

Reported By

Participant

Wearing Helmets?

Yes

Rescue Services Involved?

No third parties involved

This is the offset nut that stopped my fall on Great Slab at Cloggy. 

Author

Stephen Wilmot

6 May 2026 at 06:52:23

For more advice and guidance on good practices visit BMC skills

All reports are self-submitted and have not been edited by the BMC in any way, so please keep an open mind regarding the lessons and causes of each incident or near-miss. 

If you have a concern regarding this report please contact us at incidentreports@thebmc.co.uk

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