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Date of Incident

23/06/2019

Country

England

Incident

During placement of no3 wire (1st piece of gear), 2.5m from base of route, into small crack (5cm long) to the right of arête, the crack opened to 30cm, running to base of arête and caused movement of approx 5mm outward in a sliding motion. I have left the no3 wire in place to help mark the issue as am concerned that this part of the arête is now quiet fragile and could cause injury if falls. Also concerned that if this piece goes then it could destabilise arête rock above which looks reliant upon the base piece. Left the crag when the rain came in, no other climbers on this crag at the time.

Lessons

Always tap before you place?

Activity

Trad rock climbing

When

Ascending

Injury

No injury

Causes

Falling rock, snow, ice or object

Anonymous?

No

Reported By

Partner

Wearing Helmets?

Yes

Rescue Services Involved?

None

New Crack on arête of Jilted John

Author

caroline hopper

25 June 2019 at 16:41:24

For more advice and guidance on good practices visit BMC skills

All reports are self-submitted and have not been edited by the BMC in any way, so please keep an open mind regarding the lessons and causes of each incident or near-miss. 

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