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Date of Incident

06/09/2025

Country

England

Area

Wintour's Leap

Route

Bacchanalian

Activity

Trad rock climbing

When

Ascending

Injury

Serious injury requiring medical treatment

Incident

Four of us (the pair directly involved in the incident and us) are friends; we had approached the North Wall at Wintour’s Leap together and planned to climb two of the easier routes. We are all reasonably familiar with the area; in particular, the person who was leading at the time of the incident had led every route at grade HS at Wintour’s Leap except Bacchanalian (which they had seconded previously).

It was a warm, pleasant day with no forecast of rain. We all geared up (including helmets) and took photos of the relevant guidebook pages to avoid carrying books up the crag. We were all expecting to enjoy a morning climb and to descend (by abseil) for a late lunch.

We set off up Left Hand Route while the other pair started on Right Hand Route. They were climbing comfortably within their grade. When they reached the Great Ledge, the other pair decided to climb Bacchanalian, with the partner (“P”) leading both pitches. The first pitch went fine.

At the time of the incident, the casualty ("C") was belaying from a tree at the top of the first pitch. P had started up the second pitch and had gone about 5 metres. P was testing all the rocks for looseness by tapping them gently. P was trying to work out the next move when a large boulder dislodged; they did not pull on it so it must have been very loose. But it was also a substantial size, so would not have sounded hollow, as smaller pieces commonly do. P shouted a warning and C moved to try to avoid the boulder. The boulder hit the tree, which absorbed some of the force, then C's helmet (which is severely dented) and landed on C's left side, partly trapping them. P saw C was unconscious and downclimbed as quickly as possible while staying safe, and made them both safe with slings to the trees. (Importantly at this point due to the shout of “Below”, a 3rd pair of climbers on the ground were able to move out of the way and admit they otherwise may have been hit by the other debris that fell with the large block).

My partner and I had just set up an abseil at the top of Left Hand Route, which is about 20 metres away. We heard the call and the sound of debris crashing down.
“Are you OK?”
“Call an ambulance”
I stayed at the top and called the emergency services, requesting ambulance and mountain rescue, and stayed on the line to them relaying messages between the call centre and C&P (mediated by my partner, who had line-of-sight to both of us). I gave "what three words" location at the request of the emergency services.

Meanwhile, my partner abseiled, initially to be level with the accident, but could not get line of sight, so moved down to the ledge where Bacchanalian starts (The Great Ledge). My partner could not safely reach C and P, but could easily hear P. They checked the crag for other climbers nearby who could help. Initially there was nobody else climbing on this wall.

As noted, C was initially knocked unconscious and then came round but was concussed and very confused. C became gradually less confused during the rescue, but the swelling on their head and face were growing. The block was pressing on C's ribs, so P was unable to assess this injury as they did not want to move the block in case it then fell down the cliff.

P was with C the whole time and kept them talking, checking pulse, respiratory rate and alertness. There was concern that one of C's pupils was not responding to light and there was significant swelling. These concerns were relayed to the emergency team when they arrived nearby.

Emergency services arrived on scene initially at a different part of the crag (much nearer the easy way down viewpoint). They located us relatively quickly (my partner used a whistle and bright clothing to attract attention). After 45-50 minutes, we made direct voice contact with emergency personnel in the garden above the crag. A further team also approached below about 20-30 mins later. Since C&P were less than 20 metres from the top of the crag (and at least 60 metres from the bottom) it made much more sense to winch them up to a waiting ambulance than to lower them to a long and rough walk-out, though both options were discussed. We were relieved to see C disappear up over the edge on a stretcher, followed by P, who was also winched up to safety.

C was admitted to hospital and underwent various tests and therapies but was luckily discharged with a minor head injury, soft tissue injuries and facial fractures.

Lessons

Were the pair off-route? No: P had climbed it previously. Either way, the loose block was a hazard for any climbers in that area.

Why was the block so loose? Possibly due to the weather this year, with long dry periods but some recent heavy rains.

Could we have dealt with this incident without professionals? No: We did not have the necessary equipment to move C safely, given the nature of their injuries and their location. Also, we didn't know whether C had a spinal injury.

Were we well prepared for this incident? Not as well as we could have been: we hadn’t noted the guidance in the Guidebook that we should request Gloucestershire Police; consequently, I was put through to call centre in Wales and we had more emergency service personnel than needed, from both England and Wales, which made coordination between them more difficult. As far as I can ascertain (post-incident), there isn’t a mountain rescue team focused on the Wye Valley, so there was no point in requesting them.

We should all have been carrying small bottles of water and possibly also a warmer layer of clothing (though we didn’t actually need that in this case). Head torches might have been sensible (though again we didn’t need them because the light was good throughout).

If C had not been wearing a helmet, we're pretty certain we would be reporting a death rather than an injury from which they should fully recover.

Having a phone with a good level of charge helped enormously, and made us feel that we had good comms with the emergency services.

A whistle helped alert people to where we were.

What-three-words seemed very effective in locating us even though when I tried it a second time (while still secured at the top of the abseil, so I can’t have moved far) it gave three different words.

We are very grateful to the residents whose garden was used for the rescue: things would have been much more challenging without that access. Huge thanks to the emergency services who dealt with the incident; we are lucky to have you. Also a big thank you to the other pair of climbers who appeared on Left Hand Route during the incident and provided moral support and water.

Causes

Falling rock, snow, ice or object

Anonymous?

Yes

Reported By

Participant

Wearing Helmets?

Yes

Rescue Services Involved?

Fire / HART (performed the rescue); ambulance / HART (initial treatment and transport to hospital); police (role unknown but probably coordinating).

Photo showing the previous location of the block that fell (see red arrow annotation) on route Bacchanalian (Wintour's Leap).

Author

14 September 2025 at 19:33:38

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All reports are self-submitted and have not been edited by the BMC in any way, so please keep an open mind regarding the lessons and causes of each incident or near-miss. 

If you have a concern regarding this report please contact us at incidentreports@thebmc.co.uk

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