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Date of Incident
05/07/2026
Country
Wales
Area
Route
Activity
Trad rock climbing
When
Ascending
Injury
No injury
Incident
I was climbing a route that was at the upper end of my climbing ability. I was up about 6m and had thankfully stitched the route with 5 pieces (foreshadowing). I was unsure how to continue so I asked my belayer to take and sat on my top piece (a nut). As soon as I sat down my top nut blew and I fell further. When I stopped I was about 2m off the ground. And after checking, I realised I was sitting on my second piece, also a nut. This meant that three pieces of gear had blown during the "fall". I was very surprised at this, as all three pieces, I thought, were bomber pieces and would have easily held a fall. The pieces that pulled out were a nut at the top, followed by two cams, a yellow and a small blue.
I repelled down afterwards to replace the gear and try figure out what happened. Me and my climbing groups conclusion, a long with a few other climbers there, was due to the popular slate route, the rock was extremely smooth, not allowing any friction between the protection and rock. This shouldn't be an issue with nuts. But the nut was, admittedly, probably one size too small for the crack. But the lack of friction most likely meant that the cams, rather than camming out, just slid straight out of the rock
Thankfully the 4th piece held and prevented me from taking a ground fall.
Lessons
Be a better climber and don't fall
When people talk about friction being an important consideration in climbing, listen to them. And don't just pawn it off
Causes
Slip, trip or fall
Anonymous?
Yes
Reported By
Participant
Wearing Helmets?
Yes
Rescue Services Involved?
Author
9 July 2026 at 05:07:40
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