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Activity
Trad rock climbing
When
Ascending
Injury
Serious injury requiring medical treatment
Incident
Four of us (the pair directly involved in the incident and us) are friends; we had approached the crag together and planned to climb two of the easier routes in the north wall area. The incident occurred on the route Bacchanalian. This is on the upper tier of the North Wall area at Wintour’s Leap. The pair were climbing comfortably within their grade and were familiar with the area and rock type. The partner ("P") had previously led every other HS route at the crag, so was particularly familiar with it, and had previously seconded Bacchanalian. The weather was good. The casualty ("C") was belaying from a tree at the top of the first pitch. Everything had gone well up to this point (including their previous route on the lower tier). P had started up the second pitch and had gone about 5 metres. P was testing all the rocks for looseness by tapping them gently. P was trying to work out the next move when a large boulder dislodged; they did not pull on it so it must have been very loose. But it was also a substantial size, so would not have sounded hollow, as smaller pieces commonly do. P shouted a warning and C moved to try to avoid the boulder. The boulder hit the tree, which absorbed some of the force, then C's helmet (which is severely dented) and landed on C's left side, partly trapping them. P saw C was unconscious, and down climbed to C as quickly as was possible while staying safe, and made them both safe with slings to the trees. (Importantly at this point due to the shout of “Below”, a 3rd pair of climbers on the ground were able to move out of the way and admit they otherwise may have been hit). My partner and I had just set up an abseil at the top of Left Hand Route, which is about 20 metres away. My partner abseiled, initially to be level with the accident, but could not get line of sight, so moved down to the ledge where Bacchanalian starts (The Great Ledge). My partner could not safely reach C and P, but could easily hear P. I stayed at the top and called the emergency services requesting ambulance and mountain rescue and stayed on the line to them relaying messages between the ambulance call centre and C&P (mediated by my partner, who had line-of-sight to both of us). My partner checked the crag for other climbers near by who could help. Initially there was nobody else climbing on this wall. C was initially knocked unconscious and then came round but was concussed and very confused. C became gradually less confused during the rescue, but had significant increase in the facial swelling (head and face) during the time waiting for the emergency services. The block was pressing on C's ribs, so P was unable to assess this injury as they not want to move the block in case this led to it falling down the cliff. Emergency services were called at 15.17. They arrived on scene initially at a different part of the crag (much nearer the easy way down viewpoint). They did locate us relatively quickly (my partner used a whistle and bright clothing to attract attention). I had given "what three words" location. After 45-50 minutes, we made direct contact with emergency personnel who were in the garden above. A further team also approached below after a further approx 20-30 mins. The lower team reported they were assessing the option of lowering C to the ground. Multiple agencies attended: fire, ambulance and police, from both South Wales and South West England. A team on the ground and one above referred to themselves as HART (Hazardous Area Rescue Team). The first emergency professional to be winched from above was “Fireman Sam”. They descended with caution, to the side of C&P, due to the ongoing concern about loose rock. However, the second person to lower to the incident with the stretcher (who we believe to have been from the HART team) initially did not listen to Sam who was warning that they was approaching over the loose rock. P had to reinforce this, shouting up that (smaller) rocks were being dislodged and landing on them. This same person dropped a plastic bottle down the cliff while descending and made no attempt to shout out (this was left to my partner to notice and shout) despite there being people on and below the cliff. P was with C the whole time and kept them talking, checking pulse, respiratory rate and alertness. There was concern that one of C's pupils was not responding to light and there was significant swelling. This concern of a significant head injury was escalated to Fireman Sam. It seemed that my partner (who is a medical practitioner) and another climber who had arrived at the ledge by this time (and happened to be a paramedic) had to be very assertive to insist that C be rescued up to the top of the crag (less than 20m) and straight to a waiting ambulance using the equipment by now in place, rather than descend over 50m via multiple abseils to the bottom of the crag followed by a significant carry as proposed by HART. C was admitted to hospital and underwent various tests and therapies but was luckily discharged with a minor head injury, soft tissue injuries and a possible facial fracture.
Lessons
Were the pair off-route?
They are confident they were not, since P had climbed it previously. Either way, the loose block was a hazard for any climbers in that area.
Why was the block so loose?
Possibly due to the weather this year, with long dry periods but some recent heavy rains.
Could we have dealt with this incident without professionals?
No:
We did not have the necessary equipment to move C safely, given the nature of their injuries and their location. Also, we didn't know whether C had a spinal injury; we quickly assessed and knew this was a significant injury and rescue from above would be the quickest option if possible.
The biggest challenge was getting C off the cliff safely, starting with making contact between the people on the crag and the emergency professionals who arrived at the scene.
If C had not been wearing a helmet, we're pretty certain we would be reporting a death rather than an injury from which they will hopefully fully recover.
The pair were very aware of the dangers of loose rock and yet this still happened. The other 2 climbers on the ground are certain the shout from P saved at least one of their lives with the rock only just missing them.
Please note -There is probably still some loose rock as we have not cleaned the route or belay stance between the pitches.
Having a phone with a good level of charge helped enormously - or at least made us feel that we had good comms with the emergency services. A whistle helped alert people to where we were when on scene.
In future, we will probably all carry small water bottles (safely stowed!) on multi-pitch routes as we were all very thirsty by the time the incident was over.
An inexplicably large number of emergency professionals appeared on scene, none of which appeared to stand down during the incident. We are extremely grateful to them, and some of them were absolutely fantastic, but the fact that teams were from different regions and had different ways of working seemed to slow things down as they negotiated what to do rather than simply adopting the methods of the first team that arrived. The fire service (particularly "Fireman Sam") were central to getting C off the crag - I should have included the fire service in my initial request. I still don't know why the police became involved. I also don't know why a helicopter wasn't sent or what triggers this call out given this initially looked like a significant head injury with possible chest trauma (cost? availability?).
The fact that the incident took place within a mile of the England-Wales border and that teams from both regions got involved made things more complex. I can understand why both were alerted, but once the essential teams had arrived at the scene, others could have been stood down to simplify matters and allow a single team to lead on the rescue.
As far as I'm aware, mountain rescue never got involved, and many of the professionals who were involved seemed unaware of the specific challenges of getting a climber off a cliff safely or risks of loose rock and dropping things down the crag.
When asked about whether it was a hazardous area I should probably have said “no”, since the Hazardous Area Response Team seemed unaware of the specific hazards posed by working on a vertical cliff with potential for further rockfall. This we believe were the team that dropped the water bottle and approached over the loose rock.
Based on our experience of this incident, it seems that BMC could usefully engage in discussions with HART teams in relevant regions to ensure that HART teams understand the particular hazards of cliff rescues.
When asked about whether the area could be accessed from below, I should have been more assertive about access from above being much better (but at the time I was asked this question I wasn’t sure whether that would be possible).
We are very grateful to the residents whose garden was used for the rescue: things would have been much more challenging without that access. We are aware that BMC and climbers need to maintain cordial relations with residents close to crags in the Wye Valley.
Causes
Falling rock, snow, ice or object
Anonymous?
Yes
Reported By
Observer
Wearing Helmets?
Yes
Rescue Services Involved?
Fire / HART (performed the rescue); ambulance / HART (initial treatment and transport to hospital); police (role unknown).
Author
10 September 2025 at 11:51:11
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