Near miss. HVS, would have been my second at that grade. Both parties experienced at lower grades and familiar with the area. -5degC with wind chill, occasional drizzle (standard Stanage). Had been climbing since 0930, near miss occurred on last route around 1500. Light failing, rain closing in.
Bailed on the route, leaving gear in the rock. Planned to abseil from the top to retrieve gear. Abseil anchor and system initially set up incorrectly - anchor not equalised in the direction of pull, prussik placed above belay device. Weighted the system before conducting a final check, realised the anchor was a mess and unweighted to fix it. Partner then pointed out prussik was in the wrong place. Realised, we had binned safety in favour of getting off the route and the hill quickly, so paused to rebuild and check the system twice. Retrieved everything and left without injury.
Circumstances were ideal for an incident - rain closing in, long day at the crag, light failing, and I had just popped off the final route. Haste (and shame) to get back to the car meant not enough attention was paid to safety. Acknowledging that these factors can contribute to a insufficient attention to safety will hopefully cause myself and my partner to pay greater attention to safety in similar circumstances in the future.
Trad rock climbing
Abseil or rappel failure or error
Rescue Services Involved?
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All reports are self-submitted and have not been edited by the BMC in any way, so please keep an open mind regarding the lessons and causes of each incident or near-miss.