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Activity
Winter climbing
When
Ascending
Injury
No injury
Incident
On 13th February my partner and I climbed the Downfall Route up on Kinder. After climbing the first pitch and arriving at the belay ledge I saw the team above - the leader already climbing the final section whilst being belayed by his partner on the same ledge as my belay. I was shocked that his belay consisted on a single ice-screw and warthog, both placed in poor quality ice. The climber had clipped with a carbineer directly through (not even in) to the sling use to equalise the 2 gear placements. Therefore, if the warthog had ripped (it was flexing) the large carabineer would have slipped directly through the sling resulting in a ground fall. When told that his belay was not built correctly and that he was not attached, the climber refused to admit any wrongdoing.
Lessons
Making people aware of incorrect belays/belaying in a polite/non judgemental way is important for both the participant safety and your own wellbeing if an accident did happen, that could have been prevented by a polite reminded.
Causes
Belaying failure or error, Incorrect belay built
Anonymous?
No
Reported By
Observer
Wearing Helmets?
Yes
Rescue Services Involved?
Author
Patrick Hill
20 April 2021 at 13:05:04
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