A climber was attempting the route 'Wipe Out' at Staden Quarry on Sunday 19 July. He had successfully climbed the crux to reach the top groove, (around 18 metres) where you can place good protection.

While climbing the groove, the large block he was holding ripped out of the wall, causing him to fall. He fell approximately 5 metres onto the protection (slowing his fall) before the rope snapped, leading him to fall the remaining distance to the ground, hitting two ledges on the way. The belayer jumped to the side and avoided any injury.

He was airlifted to hospital but avoided major injury (suffering a broken rib, fractured pelvis. and two head contusions). He was discharged from hospital 8 days later and is recovering at home.

Key facts
- The leader had climbed the route previously and was confident in the gear and protection
- The leader was climbing the route on a single 9mm rope
- The rope was 10-15 years old in a good condition (no obvious wear or excessive use)
- The leader was approximately 2 metres above the last piece of protection when he fell
- The rope caught the fall at approximately 5 metres before it snapped
- Based on an analysis of the cut rope by a member of the BMC Technical Committee, the working hypothesis is that the rope was dragged along an edge while under tension, which cut through the sheath and some of the core strands. This led to a sudden shock loading, and associated extension, of the remaining core strands such that they were also subject to abrasion against the sharp edge, causing the rope to cut. This may have been caused by the angle of the fall, the rope being routed past some sharp edges below the top piece of protection, or the result of the rope getting pressed against an edge as it came under tension (due to a rock landing on it or a carabiner pinching the rope against the edge)

Group's familiarity with area: Very high level of familarity with the route, crag and the area

Skill level: Leader: High skill level (confident E2/3 climber), 40 years of experience across different climbing and mountaineering disciplines. Belayer: High skill level (confident E3/4 climber), 15 years of experience

Objectives: To successfully lead the route (the leader had already climbed the route 3 years previously)

Route: Wipe Out, E3 5b

Hazard evaluation: Leader had assessed the route from below and was confident in the climbing and protection (having led it before)