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Activity
Sport rock climbing
When
Ascending
Injury
Minor injury
Incident
Heavy climber (105kg) and light belayer (64kg).
No steps taken to counteract weight difference such as asking a heavier member of the group to belay, or using the available Ohmega.
Large rock at knee height directly in front of the belaying position.
Dry weather, low grade route (5b), both participants tired (last climb of the day), experienced indoor lead climbers but only a few days of experience outdoor climbing.
Climber slipped and fell reaching for the 3rd clip and fell about 1m onto a ledge between 1st and 2nd clip.
Belayer was not expecting the climber to fall ("I thought he had it!") so their stance and positioning were poor, they were not mentally prepared to catch a fall and did not react when the climber slipped.
As a result, as soon as their ClickUp locked, they were pulled head first towards the knee-height rock. They let go of the rope completely to brace using their hands, and were able to avoid smashing their face into any rock. However, they still ended up with a bruise on their upper arm and minor scratches/cuts to their wrists and hands.
Fortunately, the climber landed on the large ledge and did not fall a further 1.5m to the ground. Climber left with minor grazes.
I took over the belay and lowered the climber to the ground, where the climber and belayer both self administered first aid.
Lessons
Take steps to mitigate weight differences particularly when leading, there was an Ohmega and heavier belayers available.
Always be prepared to catch a fall, particularly when a climber is at increased risk due to being low to the ground/a ledge. This includes:
Mental preparation - Belayer was surprised by the fall and so did not react
Appropriate stance - belayer was front and level with the climb, they should've had one foot forward
Appropriate positioning - belayer should have been ready to step forward into the rock this would've been easier with appropriate stance and being slightly closer, or they could've already been braced against the rock with one foot.
Proper catching technique - the belayer should've put both hands on the deadrope, sat back as the climber fell and then stepped forward onto the rock as the climber's weight pulled them in.
Use a locking belay device - the device remained lock even after the belayer let go of the rope.
Quit while you're ahead - the climber was quite tired but decided to do one last route and did not properly assess the risk.
Causes
Slip, trip or fall, Inadequate equipment, clothing or footwear, Belaying failure or error
Anonymous?
No
Reported By
Observer
Wearing Helmets?
Yes
Rescue Services Involved?
Author
Brad Callaby
5 May 2026 at 06:09:28
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