My first visit and only visit to Peaks Scar. A couple of friends were very keen on the venue, but I was given some subtle words of caution by others particularly that it was slow to dry. I followed up one route and didn’t like the low friction nature of the rock (I’m used to gritstone). I then a led a route but almost backed off due to lack of protection but managed to place a small nut. As I moved up my hand slipped off a flake that was damp and I fell. The quickdraw unclipped from the wire and I fell over 5m hitting a large ledge, then fell a further 2-3m to the ground.
MR required and hospitalised with broken ribs, pneumothorax and lung contusions.
On retroflection I will never climb at this venue again and I would discourage others. Biggest factor was poor decision making on part (choice of venue, choice of route and following my instinct to back off) with inexperience a significant factor. Gear unclipping was unlucky. From subsequent self-experiments it is hard to get a quickdraw to unclip unless the tethered end (with the rubber sleeve) is clipped to the gear. I suspect I racked the quickdraw upside down and didn’t notice as I clipped.
Trad rock climbing
Serious injury requiring medical treatment
Slip, trip or fall, Route Selection, Equipment failure
Rescue Services Involved?
Cleveland Mountain Rescue
For more advice and guidance on good practices visit BMC skills
All reports are self-submitted and have not been edited by the BMC in any way, so please keep an open mind regarding the lessons and causes of each incident or near-miss.