My first visit and only visit to Peaks Scar. A couple of friends were very keen on the venue, but I was given some subtle words of caution by others particularly that it was slow to dry. I followed up one route and didn’t like the low friction nature of the rock (I’m used to gritstone). I then a led a route but almost backed off due to lack of protection but managed to place a small nut. As I moved up my hand slipped off a flake that was damp and I fell. The quickdraw unclipped from the wire and I fell over 5m hitting a large ledge, then fell a further 2-3m to the ground.
MR required and hospitalised with broken ribs, pneumothorax and lung contusions.
On retroflection I will never climb at this venue again and I would discourage others. Biggest factor was poor decision making on part (choice of venue, choice of route and following my instinct to back off) with inexperience a significant factor. Gear unclipping was unlucky. From subsequent self-experiments it is hard to get a quickdraw to unclip unless the tethered end (with the rubber sleeve) is clipped to the gear. I suspect I racked the quickdraw upside down and didn’t notice as I clipped.
Trad rock climbing
Serious injury requiring medical treatment
Slip, trip or fall, Route Selection, Equipment failure
Rescue Services Involved?
Cleveland Mountain Rescue
16 March 2020 at 14:46:23
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All reports are self-submitted and have not been edited by the BMC in any way, so please keep an open mind regarding the lessons and causes of each incident or near-miss.