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Date of Incident

18/06/2023

Country

England

Route

Incident

Not my finest moment. Once again I found myself lying in the shrubbery at Long Quarry Point, briars or roses this time.

Fell from 8m just as I was moving towards the curving crack and slab.

I had a poor cam by my waist and a good wire too low to protect me this high.

I rocked over right but my right hand hold failed (40cm triangular flake in the corner, the top 10 came off) and I fell.

The cam pinged and I landed horizontally on the shrubs. Lucky to get away with bruises and many briar cuts.

Lessons

Good gear placement and hold testing are two things that could have prevented a ground fall.

I didn't see any better placement than the poor cam, but I could have investigated further to the right before committing to the move.

I was only 1 move away from the curving crack and lots of solid gear, so that swayed me into taking a chance on a committing move above poor gear.

I knew that if the gear failed it would be a ground fall, but the move was easy.

I carefully tested the rock on the way up, and found it all to be solid, but then I did not test the hold that I pulled on.

If I had tested it, it would surely have failed and I would not have committed to it.

The other obvious lesson is route choice. In fact crag choice. Given my experiences on Long Quarry Point main slab (two previous low level ground falls and lots of holds breaking), does the quality of the routes on that face warrant the risk? Perhaps not.

Activity

Trad rock climbing

When

Ascending

Injury

Minor injury

Causes

Hold breaking

Anonymous?

No

Reported By

Participant

Wearing Helmets?

Yes

Rescue Services Involved?

Author

Pete Callaghan

19 June 2023 at 08:26:20

For more advice and guidance on good practices visit BMC skills

All reports are self-submitted and have not been edited by the BMC in any way, so please keep an open mind regarding the lessons and causes of each incident or near-miss. 

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