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Date of Incident

28/05/2026

Country

England

Area

The Roaches, western grit

Activity

Trad rock climbing

When

Ascending

Injury

Serious injury requiring medical treatment

Incident

I was leading the pitch and placed what I thought was a solid DMM size 6 wallnut in the crack to protect the traverse which I was expecting to be run out from the description. On setting off on the traverse I knew there was a chance of taking a decent size lead fall onto that nut and I felt reassured by the placement. I found the last couple of moves of the traverse challenging and started tiring so attempted to down climb but in doing so made a semi controlled fall off expecting to swing and to be caught by the nut. Sadly the nut didn’t hold and I took a ground fall leading to a compression fracture of one of my vertebrae thankfully not requiring surgery

Lessons

My nut placement was clearly not as bomber as I thought and that is for me to revisit my placements and decisions regarding their suitability. The tension on the placement would have been directional due to the traverse and I wonder if this worked it loose so possibly a cam would have been better suited.

Causes

Slip, trip or fall

Anonymous?

No

Reported By

Participant

Wearing Helmets?

Yes

Rescue Services Involved?

NHS emergency ambulance service
Buxton Mountain Rescue
Midlands air ambulance

Author

Tom Searle

31 May 2026 at 17:06:35

For more advice and guidance on good practices visit BMC skills

All reports are self-submitted and have not been edited by the BMC in any way, so please keep an open mind regarding the lessons and causes of each incident or near-miss. 

If you have a concern regarding this report please contact us at incidentreports@thebmc.co.uk

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