While climbing Southern Man on lead first G/U attempt after failed O/S I clipped below shallow roof and diverted right through the crux moves and then began to move back left. As I approached the ultimate clip I had two good crimps and pulled rope up to clip and did so fine, though tired. Finished the route with no issue though the section described was run-out. .
Upon descending I heard from two spectators that while I was pulling rope out to clip the ultimate quickdraw, the one preceding it had unclipped itself. They had kept quiet so as not to worry. Had I fallen off while clipping in this position the fall would have been likely ~10m and left me at least near the first bolt. Luckily I hadn’t known and carried on regardless.
They hadn’t noticed it before and didn’t know what caused it.
Don’t be complacent while clipping and assume the rope is secured in the draw. Ensure you have clipped correctly before moving on
When tackling routes which weave left-right/right-left consider if there is chance the rope can push to open the gate
Sport rock climbing
Rescue Services Involved?
31 May 2019, 12:24:29
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All reports are self-submitted and have not been edited by the BMC in any way, so please keep an open mind regarding the lessons and causes of each incident or near-miss.