As I was setting up a belay on top of the pinnacle having linked the traverse to the pinnacle pitch to provide my 2nd with a better top ropes belay for the traverse, 2 simu climbers forced past my 2nds, climbed under my ropes and past the pinnacle, with no gear in until all their rope was out after 25m, ?simu-soloing? until this point, only placing gear as I asked the lead to. He said don't worry about us (how couldn't I?) And he informed me he only had a small cam left, so whilst managing to contain my anger I asked him again and calmly told him his 2nd didn't look very solid (by which I meant he looked shake and insecure) and said he was jepodising me and my 2nds. He unconfidently placed the cam and a sling on a poor spike and exited, his 2nd following shakily.
They didn't wait for us, apologise for their actions or even try and communicate.
They shouldn't have climbed through on a route that it was near impossible to avoid crossing a parties ropes on, and definitely with braizen disregard for the opinions of those they passed, who were not experienced enough to object, they shouldn't have had as much rope out, should have had protection in place regardless, and should have pitched to avoid running out a stretch with no gear on the lead, let alone, crossing our ropes and jepodising my wife, friend and myself.
I feel that I should have communicated with the lead earlier in hindsight, telling him not to cross my ropes and belay before being below me at least, or better still reverse to before my 2nd still at the previous belay. I didn't as I was worried about unnerving the lead whilst in a dangerous position with an apparently unconfident 2nd.
Trad rock climbing
Simu climbing error
2 2nds on my ropes, a party of 2 simu climbers who caused the risk
Rescue Services Involved?
7 June 2021, 18:42:39
For more advice and guidance on good practices visit BMC skills
All reports are self-submitted and have not been edited by the BMC in any way, so please keep an open mind regarding the lessons and causes of each incident or near-miss.