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Date of Incident
16/08/2025
Country
Scotland
Area
Route
Activity
Trad rock climbing
When
Descending
Injury
No injury
Incident
A team reached the top tier of Sron na Ciche 1.5 hours before dark but with only one rucksack containing one headtorch between 3 (other rucksacks and headtorches were left at the base of the crag). The group was unfamiliar with the area, and one member of the party was not an experience climber. Guided by the rockfax app topo, the group attempted to descend Eastern gully, believing it to be the fastest and safest descent (another descent option is not presented on the topo even the the sgumain stone chute is walkable and only a few 100 m further round). The team abseiled into the gully but were surprised that there was limited tat for such a popular crag. Unsure which of the old bits of tat to use, two of the team abseiled to a lower ab point, whereas the final member of the party decided to continue using the higher ab point in the hope of reaching the bottom so that the other two could follow without having to leave more gear. However, when the lowest member of the party reached the bottom, the two upper group members could no longer reach the ropes due to the stepped angle of the gully. The lower group member was forced to prussik back up the rope, by which point it was dark. Descent was then significantly slowed by the lack of headtorches. The team found that the exit from the gully to the moderate scramble was hard to locate in the dark, and the terrain looked beyond the capabilities of the group with limited light. Not confident in abseiling off the face as not knowing the distance to the ground, the team decided to wait until daylight to continue the scramble off the crag. The group had only one spare fleece and only one energy bar between 3. If the night had been colder, it is possible that the team would have been forced to take riskier action to get off the crag e.g. splitting up to retrieve headtorches, or even calling mountain rescue.
Lessons
1. Always carry a headtorch per person as a minimum, even if expecting to top out well before nightfall. When leaving bags at the bottom of a crag it is easy to forget to transfer headtorches into the single bag being carried.
2. Do not rely on a single topo or guidebook description for descent, as this can be misleading and not present the easiest option.
3. Carry spare layers for emergencies.
4. Do not attempt to abseil from a lower point than where the rope is anchored, you may not be able to see the geometry that will later cause the ropes to be unreachable when you are all at the anchor.
5. Decision-making can be impacted by the perceived time constraint of impending darkness. This can result in mistakes such as abseiling down the wrong gully despite the tat being clearly not what you would expect from a popular crag, not considering other descent options which may have been safer, or making a mistake with abseiling from different points.
Causes
Navigation Error, Darkness, Inadequate equipment, clothing or footwear, Abseil or rappel failure or error
Anonymous?
Yes
Reported By
Participant
Wearing Helmets?
Yes
Rescue Services Involved?
Author
2 February 2026 at 14:31:00
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