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Date of Incident

20/04/2021

Country

England

Incident

On 13th February my partner and I climbed the Downfall Route up on Kinder. After climbing the first pitch and arriving at the belay ledge I saw the team above - the leader already climbing the final section whilst being belayed by his partner on the same ledge as my belay. I was shocked that his belay consisted on a single ice-screw and warthog, both placed in poor quality ice. The climber had clipped with a carbineer directly through (not even in) to the sling use to equalise the 2 gear placements. Therefore, if the warthog had ripped (it was flexing) the large carabineer would have slipped directly through the sling resulting in a ground fall. When told that his belay was not built correctly and that he was not attached, the climber refused to admit any wrongdoing.

Lessons

Making people aware of incorrect belays/belaying in a polite/non judgemental way is important for both the participant safety and your own wellbeing if an accident did happen, that could have been prevented by a polite reminded.

Activity

Winter climbing

When

Ascending

Injury

No injury

Causes

Belaying failure or error, Incorrect belay building

Anonymous?

No

Reported By

Observer

Wearing Helmets?

Yes

Rescue Services Involved?

Author

Patrick Hill

20 April 2021, 09:48:11

For more advice and guidance on good practices visit BMC skills

All reports are self-submitted and have not been edited by the BMC in any way, so please keep an open mind regarding the lessons and causes of each incident or near-miss.