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Date of Incident

21/04/2022

Country

England

Incident

We were going for an evening ascent of the 2-pitch route Malbogies in Avon gorge. My partner lead the first pitch uneventfully. I (somehow) split a tip on second but otherwise arrived unscathed at the first belay. We re-racked and I started the second pitch. Made it to the start of the leftwards traverse when a massive hold came off. I fell a few metres and was caught by a no.4 nut. (Another back-up nut that I'd failed to seat properly came out, unsurprisingly). The hold fell to the base of the route but fortunately no-one was around and my belayer was well out of harms way. I came to a stop holding onto the rock but hanging over the edge of an overhang below the slab I'd scraped down. Apart from superficial injuries I was ok, so I climbed back onto the slab, sorted out the ropes and finished the route, cautiously and with lots of protection.

Lessons

Only that I guess I might have been able to check the hold more carefully before pulling on it. There was other loose rock around, which was relatively easy to avoid, I think I just misjudged the solidity of this one.

Activity

Trad rock climbing

When

Ascending

Injury

Minor injury

Causes

Hold breaking

Anonymous?

No

Reported By

Partner

Wearing Helmets?

Yes

Rescue Services Involved?

None

Author

Ant Stephenson

22 April 2022, 11:22:47

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All reports are self-submitted and have not been edited by the BMC in any way, so please keep an open mind regarding the lessons and causes of each incident or near-miss.