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Incident
We were going for an evening ascent of the 2-pitch route Malbogies in Avon gorge. My partner lead the first pitch uneventfully. I (somehow) split a tip on second but otherwise arrived unscathed at the first belay. We re-racked and I started the second pitch. Made it to the start of the leftwards traverse when a massive hold came off. I fell a few metres and was caught by a no.4 nut. (Another back-up nut that I'd failed to seat properly came out, unsurprisingly). The hold fell to the base of the route but fortunately no-one was around and my belayer was well out of harms way. I came to a stop holding onto the rock but hanging over the edge of an overhang below the slab I'd scraped down. Apart from superficial injuries I was ok, so I climbed back onto the slab, sorted out the ropes and finished the route, cautiously and with lots of protection.
Lessons
Only that I guess I might have been able to check the hold more carefully before pulling on it. There was other loose rock around, which was relatively easy to avoid, I think I just misjudged the solidity of this one.
Activity
Trad rock climbing
When
Ascending
Injury
Minor injury
Causes
Hold breaking
Anonymous?
No
Reported By
Partner
Wearing Helmets?
Yes
Rescue Services Involved?
None
Author
Ant Stephenson
22 April 2022 at 11:22:47
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All reports are self-submitted and have not been edited by the BMC in any way, so please keep an open mind regarding the lessons and causes of each incident or near-miss.