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Date of Incident

21/04/2022

Country

England

Activity

Trad rock climbing

When

Ascending

Injury

Minor injury

Incident

We were going for an evening ascent of the 2-pitch route Malbogies in Avon gorge. My partner lead the first pitch uneventfully. I (somehow) split a tip on second but otherwise arrived unscathed at the first belay. We re-racked and I started the second pitch. Made it to the start of the leftwards traverse when a massive hold came off. I fell a few metres and was caught by a no.4 nut. (Another back-up nut that I'd failed to seat properly came out, unsurprisingly). The hold fell to the base of the route but fortunately no-one was around and my belayer was well out of harms way. I came to a stop holding onto the rock but hanging over the edge of an overhang below the slab I'd scraped down. Apart from superficial injuries I was ok, so I climbed back onto the slab, sorted out the ropes and finished the route, cautiously and with lots of protection.

Lessons

Only that I guess I might have been able to check the hold more carefully before pulling on it. There was other loose rock around, which was relatively easy to avoid, I think I just misjudged the solidity of this one.

Causes

Hold breaking

Anonymous?

No

Reported By

Partner

Wearing Helmets?

Yes

Rescue Services Involved?

None

Author

Ant Stephenson

22 April 2022 at 11:22:47

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All reports are self-submitted and have not been edited by the BMC in any way, so please keep an open mind regarding the lessons and causes of each incident or near-miss. 

If you have a concern regarding this report please contact us at incidentreports@thebmc.co.uk

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