Top rope self belay with shunt on static abseil line with DMM belay screw gate - After a fall the shunt became jammed on the rope, it would not open or allow the rope to move. The weight had t be transferred onto a Gri Gri and Jumar. After jumaring to the top, threading the bolted belay, and pulling up the other end of the rope, it was possible to return safely to the ground. Only when returning home could the shunt be removed with a hammer, and it appeared the shunts lever had twisted to the side.
Use of a mallion instead of a screwgate. Back up devices. Maybe using another device such as micro-traxion.
Rescue Services Involved?
For more advice and guidance on good practices visit BMC skills
All reports are self-submitted and have not been edited by the BMC in any way, so please keep an open mind regarding the lessons and causes of each incident or near-miss.