31/05/2025

Youth

Taking a group of competent indoor lead climbers out for their first taste of outdoor rock climbing on easy single-pitch routes on Stanage. An anchor had been setup to top-rope Youth (VDiff). Weather: stable, cloudy with intermittent bursts of sun, 25mph winds at the anchor, 18C without windchill. The anchor comprised a sling around a small thread to the left of the route finish, and two small nuts grouped to the right, one of which threaded into the crack. The anchor was built as a sliding anchor between the thread and the grouped nuts with limiting knots very close to the master point. The route then saw multiple top-rope ascents by my group, circa 10 ascents with lowers. It is worth noting a second line had also been setup on the neighbouring Icy Crack (VS) where I had used the same thread again to build the anchor, using another sling. The final ascent saw climber #1 sim-leading, on a top-top belay from climber #2 and lead-belay from climber #3 to learn how to place gear on their first trad ascent. Rockfax comments noted this route a good First-Trad-route with lots of good gear. Indeed climber #1 did a great clean ascent. Upon getting to the top, climber #3 took climber #1 off lead-belay to be lowered on the top rope. Around 1/3rd of the way down, 2-3m, climber #1 and climber #2 stopped, noting they felt a sudden drop of a few inches. I told them to stay there as I went up the side to inspect the anchor, I found the thread had failed, with the sliding anchor and limit knots transferring load to the two small nuts. I’d placed. They were holding, so I advised climber #2 to continue the lower slowly, after which I pulled up the rope and dismantled the anchor as judged it not safe enough to continue. No injuries, pictures taken.

17/06/2023

Boyd's Crack

Fell from the climb. For a V diff it was quite difficult but virtually impossible to protect

01/05/2023

Kelly overhang

Slumped in the rope at the crux. Black totem popped followed by a yellow totem which completely blew - wires snapped. Was then only on other rope so pendulums into wall at start of route. Some cuts and contusions plus winded.

15/09/2019

Eckhards Arete

I was resting on gear on the climb due to it being nasty and polished, there where 3 bits of gear 2 nuts and a cam, all 3 bits failed even though I was only resting and the gear placement especially on the nuts looked very good. I am a resonably experienced climber of 7 years ish. I fell around 4 to 5 meters and hit the floor including a rock possibly, onto my back, I was intially winded, and I was told to stay still, mountain rescue where then called. Mountain rescue where amazing and carried me off the hill to an ambulance which arrived shortly after, the hospital staff were also incredible. Luckily I had sustained no injuries other then bruised back and whip lash on my neck. The random climbers in the vacinity where brillaint and put loads of coats on top of me, my climbing budy was also amazing. Thank you to everyone for their help.