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Both climbers familiar with the location but not the route. Warm day and first time climbing on limestone and first multi pitch this year. We had been out several times on grit. Did pitch one fairly confidently but didn’t feel my head game was all there on the lead. Started pitch 2 and was able to put in 2 pieces of decent pro. Started to move up through the layback flake and was a little hubristic about needing more gear placements so was a little run out. Fell off route about 3.5m above last gear after my foot slipped. Both bits of gear held (purple dam cam and number 9 rock) Ended up upside down on my back. General scapes and cuts to arm and back. Also a sore ankle. Glad for the helmet and my belayer. They did brilliantly from their hanging belay. Especially considering I was out of sight. I was able to get back on route and settle myself. I then spent a little time placing a couple of bits of pro for the section I fell off and finished the route. Brought up my second and we abbed off.
Waterpipe Bay area
My Partner and I had just arrived at the upper tier of waterpipe bay and were checking the topo of 'Locust'. we became aware of some activity above us and a little way to our left (maybe around 'mean mr mustard'). we briefly moved off to the right to get a better view of the route. at this point we could see someone attempting to begin descending into the bay. somehow they dislodged a large block which caused a fair rockfall down the face of the upper tier and into the trees below. luckily we had moved out of the area. upon topping out of our climb i spoke briefly with the climbers involved but they were vague about what had happened. I am unsure whether the block was part of their abseil anchor setup or had become dislodged another way. one of the pair sustained some cuts/graze to their leg. the pair decided to leave after searching for a hold brush they had dropped in the incident.
Jilted John
During placement of no3 wire (1st piece of gear), 2.5m from base of route, into small crack (5cm long) to the right of arête, the crack opened to 30cm, running to base of arête and caused movement of approx 5mm outward in a sliding motion. I have left the no3 wire in place to help mark the issue as am concerned that this part of the arête is now quiet fragile and could cause injury if falls. Also concerned that if this piece goes then it could destabilise arête rock above which looks reliant upon the base piece. Left the crag when the rain came in, no other climbers on this crag at the time.
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