25/05/2024

Reynard

Climbing Accident Report: First Time at Foxhole Cove Climbers Involved: Mark: Two years of intensive sport climbing experience, climbing up to 7a indoors and mid 6s outdoors. Rowan: Fifteen years of climbing experience, currently climbing high 6s indoors and mid 6s outdoors. Conditions: Weather: Mostly sunny with no rain. Crag: Foxhole Cove Objective: Morning: Easy sport climbing. Afternoon: Easy traditional climbing. Description of Events: This was Mark and Rowan's first time climbing outdoors together. The day began on easy slabs. After lunch, they moved to the main area and attempted a polished 6a+ route, which left them both feeling tired. They decided to finish with some easier climbs. Despite having an outdated Rockfax guide, they attempted to identify easier routes on the left side of the crag. Climbs Attempted: Referencing https://swcw.org.uk/wiki/Foxhole_Cove Mark's Lead: Never Out-Fox the Fox Rowan's Lead/Clean: Same route, with Rowan leaving the last clip attached, intending to use an alternative finish. Accident Details: Mark decided to climb what they later identified as "Reynard" after referencing the climbing wiki post-accident. Rowan belayed from below the loose grassy/muddy bank. Mark started his ascent, clipping the first bolt (C1). He then climbed to what he perceived as the next bolt (C2). The climb was challenging, and Mark began to get pumped. As he attempted to clip the rope into the draw, his hand strength gave out, and he fell. Fall Dynamics: Initial Fall: Approximately 2.5 meters, landing on the bank, resulting in a twisted ankle. Swing: Mark then swung, impacting his head against the rock. Fortunately, he was wearing a helmet, which prevented a more serious injury. Post-Accident Actions: Rowan kept Mark on belay and assessed his injuries. Mark sustained a mild ankle sprain and bruising. Rowan then led and cleaned the route, using different initial bolts before C2. They exited the crag slowly, with Rowan carrying the gear. Conclusion: Mark's helmet significantly mitigated the impact of the fall, and his injuries were relatively minor. The outdated guide contributed to route confusion.