Two experienced climbers stopping by for some quick cragging on their way further West. Belayer was unaware of bolted anchors at top of (not bolted) climb and with the road noise mistook take for safe as that was their usual system. Luckily climber checked before weighting rope. Scary near miss from complacency.
The Copse HVS 5a **
Lead climber placed insufficient gear in rock. Placed two pieces at a height of around 5m and continued climbing through bold section to around 9m, just below ledge and pegs. Took a lead fall, with foot catching rope and inverting climber. Climber hit protruding slab of rock to belayer's right.