We were going for an evening ascent of the 2-pitch route Malbogies in Avon gorge. My partner lead the first pitch uneventfully. I (somehow) split a tip on second but otherwise arrived unscathed at the first belay. We re-racked and I started the second pitch. Made it to the start of the leftwards traverse when a massive hold came off. I fell a few metres and was caught by a no.4 nut. (Another back-up nut that I'd failed to seat properly came out, unsurprisingly). The hold fell to the base of the route but fortunately no-one was around and my belayer was well out of harms way. I came to a stop holding onto the rock but hanging over the edge of an overhang below the slab I'd scraped down. Apart from superficial injuries I was ok, so I climbed back onto the slab, sorted out the ropes and finished the route, cautiously and with lots of protection.
Two experienced climbers stopping by for some quick cragging on their way further West. Belayer was unaware of bolted anchors at top of (not bolted) climb and with the road noise mistook take for safe as that was their usual system. Luckily climber checked before weighting rope. Scary near miss from complacency.
The Copse HVS 5a **
Lead climber placed insufficient gear in rock. Placed two pieces at a height of around 5m and continued climbing through bold section to around 9m, just below ledge and pegs. Took a lead fall, with foot catching rope and inverting climber. Climber hit protruding slab of rock to belayer's right.