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The climber (an experienced leader) was attempting The Toy (graded E1 but really E2, length 7 m). He had two runners at one-third height, and then a wire at half height. He rested on the half-height runner, then continued. With his feet roughly level with the runner he fell. That runner ripped (and the two lower runners were then too low; the belayer was not at fault). Though short in distance, the fall had a high fall-factor; the wire had clear gouge marks afterwards. Unfortunately, the jerk as the runner ripped tilted him backward. Thus he landed largely on his bum/back, with his head then hitting a boulder quite hard, causing him to lose consciousness. He was wearing a helmet. The rescue teams arrived promptly, and he was stretchered to the crag top and helicoptered to hospital.
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