25/07/2014

Slape Direct

The route starts up a crack and is immediately hard (and harder than it looks). The climbing is a little off balance and the gear before the crux move is hard is in an awkward placement, made more awkward by the position of the climber. The leader had climbed up so that their feet were around 3m off the ground. They had a good nut placement by their feet. The leader struggled to place a piece of gear above their head in an awkward slot and became pumped in the process. Once they had placed it they clipped the same rope as through the first piece and then sat on the rope. The small cam they had placed ripped out and the leader was flipped upside down by the rope before the first runner caught them, stopping just before the deck head first.