23/08/2025

Eclipse

Climber went off route on Pitch 2, around an arete, fell, gear held but rope completely severed. Fell on to penultimate bit of gear, rope severely damaged, but caught the fall estimated by belayer to be at least 60ft. Climber lowered to the ground on remaining strands, with the belayer now stranded on the belay ledge of P2. Luckily we had just clinbed the route, heard the fall and could see what had happened, so both climbers were rescued via a top-rope thrown from above. Otherwise they'd have been stuck down at the base of the sea cliffs on a rising tide.

09/10/2018

American Beauty

Long 100m abseil into American Beauty on heavy 12mm static access rope. Rigged from boulders, jumper used to protect rope at boulders and carefully laid over broken slope at the top of the climb. 3 climbers abseiled down the rope, smoothly no bouncing and no problems. After ascent and about to pack up friends came over to do the same route so we offered them our ab rope still in situ to save time. As the first climber started to descend he noticed damage to the abseil rope so aborted and swapped to another rope. The original rope had had its mantel cut through(90%) , but all cores intact. Probable cause was sharp rock hidden in the grass/ moss at the top of the abseil descent as the rope goes over the edge.