top of page
Raven Rock Gully
First time climbing at Roaches. After climbing several routes throughout the day (mostly S/HS) I decided to lead Raven Rock Gully for an easy lead for the final climb of the day. I followed the Topo on the Rockfax app, moving left approximately half way up the climb to the central block. The move was an awkward overhang onto a sloper which felt too hard for the grade. I was protected by what I thought was a good thread approx 2m below the hard move. Slipped & fell on the climb up and the thread broke, leading to an 8m or so fall. Only other gear was below half height so decked out. Lead to broken collarbone and some other minor leg and back bumps.
Chalkstorm E3 5c
Chalkstorm is a route which climbs a short slab (~4 metres) to a break where gear can be placed then follows another slab to the top (~10 metres, to give a 14 metre route). The crux move is stepping off good footholds just above the break. I (Tom) completed this move and was moving steadily up the slab. I gained some crimps with my hands at around 8-10 metres off the floor and it being a hot day my fingers slipped off them. I felt myself pulling away from the rock and almost recovered it by really bearing down with my right hand on the crimp but it didn't work and I fell, turning away from the rock as I did so. I was too far above the gear for it to be of any use so hit the deck. This led to a swollen left ankle, which was treated at the Northern General hospital the day after with a moon boot to wear for 4 weeks, and diagnosed as a bad sprain with a very minor chip fracture off the back of the heel. Skidding down the slab also ripped holes in my trousers seat!
bottom of page